South Australia

South Australia is often called the Festival State, which is certainly true as far as it goes. Despite the growth of arts festivals in other states, the Adelaide Festival retains its place as Australia's most prestigious, and one of the great arts festivals of the world.

But there is certainly more to South Australia than one biennial festival.

Adelaide is one of Australia's few planned cities, carefully designed and systematically colonised entirely by free settlers. As a result, it has none of the higgledy-piggledy growth of cities such as Sydney, where expansion was a matter of expediency rather than careful thought. Adelaide's wide streets, gracious buildings and peaceful parks give it an air of settled sophistication abundantly supported by its obvious commitment to all things cultural.

The Adelaide Hills region to the east of the city is an attractive area of small historic villages, many with a distinct European feel and scenery to match. It is also the site of the Penfold Magill Estate, home to Australia's most admired red wine, Grange Hermitage.

An hour to the north of Adelaide you'll find the Barossa Valley, probably the best known of the Australian wine regions. Years of skill and tradition have developed not only the vineyards but the rich culture of the community, where the strong German influence can still be seen in the luscious local food and the thriving arts and crafts.

Still further north, the peaks, gorges and sheltered creeks of the Flinders Ranges provide one of South Australia's best natural escapes. Flinders Ranges National Park protects an amazing diversity of plants and wildlife, and the bloom of spring wildflowers against the colours of the ranges themselves can be a stunning sight. At the heart of the park is Wilpena Pound, a remarkable natural amphitheatre 17km long and 8km wide.

If you're looking for the Outback in South Australia, you don't have far to go. Once you leave Port Augusta at the head of Spencer Gulf, the scenery rapidly changes, giving way to the red earth of Australia's central deserts. But don't imagine there's nothing there. Between the oases of its distinctive small towns, you'll find reminders of those who've been there before you: landmarks, deserted settlements and rock art. You'll also find lakes and more lakes, some with water and many without. The largest, Lake Eyre, is ten times the size of Singapore.

In the middle of all this is Coober Pedy. Opals were discovered here in 1915, and opals are the focus of the whole town. Coober Pedy may not be everyone's cup of tea, but it's a fascinating place well worth a visit. The tourist shops are legion, the golf course is completely grassless (the greens are oiled sand) and visitors are encouraged to fossick among the mullock heaps. But the town's main claim to fame is that much of it is underground. Hotels, houses and the Anglican Church have all dug deep to escape the heat.

In striking contrast to the harsh environment of Coober Pedy, Kangaroo Island is a world-class nature-based tourist destination where 'clean green' is not just a catchphrase but a way of life. Clear water, fantastic scenery, unspoiled wilderness areas, a range of great local food and no crowds – and it's only an hour by boat from the mainland.

The Adelaide Festival is held in the 'even' years, but whenever you visit South Australia, you'll find plenty to do.

SA map